Author Topic: My future build  (Read 2304 times)

Aruun72

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My future build
« on: May 20, 2017, 12:16:12 PM »
So I started a thread like this on Wayalife, and it didn't get anything accomplished because I added that I would build for 37" but may just put 35s on.  And the majority of comments was decide what tires you want.  I want to built for 37s.  Because of cost, I'm breaking this down into two phases.  What I'm looking for is what parts I'm missing from each phase.  Secondly, if you want to recommend manufactures to look at/avoid, that's cool too.

Phase 1
1.25” Body Lift Kit
2.5-3” Spring Suspension lift kit (Teraflex or Skyjacker)
Exhaust spacers
17x9 Wheels
37” Tires

Phase 2
4.88 Front and Rear Ring and Pinion set (G2 or Yukon)
Front & Rear 1350 Driveshaft (J.E. Reel or Tom Wood's)
4” Long Arm Lift Kit (Teraflex or Skyjacker)
Dropped Pitman Arm
Steering Stabilizer
Heavy Duty Tie Rod
Heavy Duty Trackbar
2013 JKU Rubicon; Smittybilt XRC Mod front bumper; Smittybilt Atlas rear bumper; Smittybilt SRC Side Armor; Smittybilt XRC 10k Winch; Smittybilt SRC Sport Cage; Bestop Trektop NX; Spod switch panel; Rugged Ridge Lightbar; Uniden CMX660 CB; Yaesu FT-8900R

Jared

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Re: My future build
« Reply #1 on: May 20, 2017, 12:38:50 PM »
I would look into metalcloak. They have a great lift, as well as several other items you may be interested in, like exhaust spacers. 4.88 with 37's will run about like stock, higher (5.13+) will give more power where lower (4.56-) will give better gas mileage. Either way you will need to get a programmer to set shift points and tire size and anything else you may want. Procal is what I use and highly recommended. Track bar, tie rod, stabilizer are all great items and won't make any difference where you put them. I would also add a drag link if your doing all the other items. Unless you have a rubicon I would suggest looking into sway bar disconnects. Easy add on and worth it.


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chasemccl

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Re: My future build
« Reply #2 on: May 21, 2017, 10:20:57 AM »
Yours looks pretty similar to mine. I went with 1.25 teraflex body lift, 2.5 rock krawler suspendion lift, Adams driveshafts and 17x9 procomps on 37s. RK's track bars and tie rod are pretty beefy and all there stuff has a lifetime warranty.
2008 jku
2.5 rock krawler lift
1.25 body lift
37" mastercrafts
PSC front ACE rear
Engo 12k

Life's a journey best traveled in 4x4

austin160

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Re: My future build
« Reply #3 on: May 22, 2017, 07:18:34 AM »
Check my signature for my stuff.  First thing is C gussets if you are going to run 37's.  4.88 is perfect with 37's and a manual, don't know about the auto.  I went with MC Gamechanger because it was the most complete lift on the market, all control arms and front and rear track bars.  I couldn't be happier so far.  Body lifts are a personal preference, I don't like them I would rather have the taller springs.  3.5" and trimmed fenders will get you on 37's.  I'm running a 1310 Adams driveshaft, they have awesome customer service as does Metal Cloak.  It will hold 37's any bigger and I would have a 1350.  May want to add ball joints onto phase one if you have some high miles on the stocks, I'm not 100% but they may not last with 37's.  Also go with 12.50 if you don't want to run spacers, I have 13.50. Check with whatever lift you are buying for the offset on the wheels.  MC 3.5" calls for 3.5-4", most 17x9 are 4.5 unless you get bead locks hence why I'm running spacers.

s2inga

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My future build
« Reply #4 on: May 22, 2017, 08:24:50 PM »
Why the body lift on a JK?  They add height with no functionality. Get taller springs   

Why do you think you need a drop pitman.  Normally just cause issues.
« Last Edit: May 22, 2017, 08:29:40 PM by s2inga »
2012 JKU Sahara & 2004 TJ Rubicon

chasemccl

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Re: My future build
« Reply #5 on: May 22, 2017, 11:08:19 PM »
Why the body lift on a JK?  They add height with no functionality. Get taller springs   

Why do you think you need a drop pitman.  Normally just cause issues.
They add an extra inch of tire room without changing suspension or driveline angles.
2008 jku
2.5 rock krawler lift
1.25 body lift
37" mastercrafts
PSC front ACE rear
Engo 12k

Life's a journey best traveled in 4x4

Aruun72

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Re: My future build
« Reply #6 on: May 22, 2017, 11:56:59 PM »
Why the body lift on a JK?  They add height with no functionality. Get taller springs   

Why do you think you need a drop pitman.  Normally just cause issues.

The body lift kit is to add additional room for the tire, along with changing from the factory fenders to flat.  Then I don't need to get the new drive shafts, but can use 37s. Which will carry over to the phase 2 kit.

The drop pitman was a required component for the skyjacker 4" kit I was using as a reference.  May not need with choosing a final kit.
2013 JKU Rubicon; Smittybilt XRC Mod front bumper; Smittybilt Atlas rear bumper; Smittybilt SRC Side Armor; Smittybilt XRC 10k Winch; Smittybilt SRC Sport Cage; Bestop Trektop NX; Spod switch panel; Rugged Ridge Lightbar; Uniden CMX660 CB; Yaesu FT-8900R

s2inga

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My future build
« Reply #7 on: May 23, 2017, 09:59:09 AM »
Why the body lift on a JK?  They add height with no functionality. Get taller springs   

Why do you think you need a drop pitman.  Normally just cause issues.

The body lift kit is to add additional room for the tire, along with changing from the factory fenders to flat.  Then I don't need to get the new drive shafts, but can use 37s. Which will carry over to the phase 2 kit.

The drop pitman was a required component for the skyjacker 4" kit I was using as a reference.  May not need with choosing a final kit.

You should never change to a drop pitman arm on a JK.  The steering box shafts are bad enough without the extra leverage. Instead you do a drag link flip over the knuckle.
2012 JKU Sahara & 2004 TJ Rubicon

 


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